On the Hunt for a Good Chicken Cacciatore

Pollo alla Cacciatora, chicken in the hunter’s style, is such a classic Italian stew that it has a thousand variations — by region, by tradition, and by grandma. Sonia, our cooking teacher in Lucca, was a passionate advocate of including the local olives from Lucca, which we hunted down with almost as much panting as a beagle after a fox. At last we found what we were looking for in a tiny wine shop, and grabbed some of the local olive oil as well, just to make sure we’d fully bagged our prey.

The origin of pollo alla cacciatora is in spirit meant to be a preparation of what the hunter might have brought home: a pheasant, a grouse, perhaps a rabbit, cooked in broth and wild mushrooms which presumably the hunter also thoughtfully chucked into his or her rucksack. Over time the wild critter has been replaced by the domestic chicken, and the recipe morphed and adapted to what’s at hand. The “hunter” is more likely the person who’s hunting up whatever the larder has to offer.

I’ll go so far as to give another interpretation, inspired by the adamant inclusion of Lucca olives. Chicken cacciatore can be the celebration of something local, be it mushrooms, olives, garden rosemary, homegrown tomatoes. To honor our beautiful teacher, I’ve included olives, but I also used locally grown vegetables and my own herbs. What makes it good is the freshness of the ingredients combined with slow and patient cooking.

Chicken Cacciatore | serves 4 to 6

1 whole chicken, cut into 8 pieces
3 tablespoons olive oil
8 small tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped (or 1 large can tomatoes)
1 onion, chopped
1 carrot, peeled and chopped
1 celery stalk, chopped
2 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed
1 cup dry white wine
4-inch sprig rosemary, leaves chopped
4-inch sprig fresh oregano, chopped
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 cup good quality olives
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
4 Italian parsley sprigs, leaves minced

Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a large pot and brown the chicken well on both sides. Cook in batches if necessary.

While the chicken is browning, prepare the tomatoes. Drop the tomatoes into boiling water and blanch for 1 minute. Rinse under cold water and peel off the skin. Slice the tomatoes in half, scrape out the seeds and discard, and chop the flesh.

When the chicken is browned, remove it to a plate. Put the chopped onion, carrot, celery and garlic in the pot and wilt for 5 minutes. Add 2/3 cup of the white wine and reduce it for 3 minutes.

When the wine has mostly boiled off, add the chopped tomatoes, rosemary, oregano, red pepper flakes, the remaining 1/3 cup white wine and combine. Season with salt and pepper. Add the browned chicken and the olives to the pot and toss to coat the chicken.

Cover tightly and simmer over very low heat for 45 minutes, turning the chicken occasionally while it cooks.

Adjust the seasoning when the chicken is done, and spoon onto a serving platter with all the juices. Sprinkle with minced parsley and serve — over polenta, with a hunk of great bread, over pasta, or just the way your hunters like it.

Kelly McCune © 2010

Tagged as: Chicken, Italian