Cherry pickin' the cherries
“Life is just a bowl of cherries” can mean both that everything’s marvelous and its ironic opposite. Perhaps I felt both ends of that emotional spectrum when The Husband brought home over six pounds of Raniers and Bings. Too much of a good thing? We washed, we ate, we spit stones and still there was an undiminished pile of cherries. In a dash to do something with them lest they get moldy, I decided to cook them all with a little sugar — at least that would hold them until I figured out how to use them.
The cooked cherries I ended up with are not only delicious, they have conjured up a childhood memory of the cherry pie at Tulsa’s local buffeteria, my six-year-old self’s idea of fawncy dining. Yes! The cherry pie there was the gelatinous variety, and the crust made with tastable lard. But I still crave the concept of cherry pie. With these cooked cherries I’m going to make an open-faced tart with fresh pastry cream, cherries arranged on top and sprinkled with chopped mint.
That’s what I’m making next week — our first go-round with the cherries was to spoon them over Ben & Jerry’s vanilla ice cream.
Try shaving chocolate on top instead of mint
But now that I think of it, the cherries would be wonderful over cooked chicken and sprinkled with toasted almonds, served alone with a dollop of sweetened sour cream, or over waffles.
Cherries bring out one of my favorite kitchen gadgets — mostly because I gave it so little respect until the moment I needed it — the cherry pitter.
A tool I thought of as an "inessential" until I had to pit a pound of cherries
That moment came when, years ago, I decided to try making a cherry clafoutis — a sort of eggy, puffy custard dessert with fresh cherries in it. Traditionally the clafoutis is cooked with unpitted cherries, but my dinner guests were not expected to be that adventursome. So I started in pitting with a paring knife and ended up running to the nearest Williams-Sonoma for a pitter. Can’t keep the cherry whole without it!
Start by washing the cherries and removing all the stems
Cooked & Sweetened Cherries | Makes 4+ cups
2 1/2 pounds or 6 heaping cups whole cherries (can be a mix of varieties)
1/3 cup water
1/2 cup sugar
Dash of Kirschwasser (cherry brandy) — optional
1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
Pinch of salt
Wash the cherries and pull off the stems. Pit the cherries using a cherry pitter. I like to do this over a trash can, since the pit will fire out the bottom of the cherry and the juices can stain the counter. I also wear an apron!
Center the cherry in the bottom ring, with the stem end under the hammer. Squeeze and watch the pit shoot right out!
Put the pitted cherries, water, sugar and Kirschwasser in a large saucepan. (Kirschwasser is a clear cherry brandy that is not sweet and has a slight almond flavor.) Bring to a boil.
There isn't a lot of water but the cherries will give off juices
Stir the cherries and cover the pan. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook the cherries, covered, for 30 minutes. Stir in the balsamic and salt — the vinegar adds depth and the salt highlights the sweetness of the cherries. Let the cherries simmer uncovered for another 30 minutes. Allow to cool in the saucepan.
Most of the cherries will hold their shape
When the cherries are cool, spoon them into a jar and refrigerate until needed.
Share half with a friend!
I guess life is just a bowl of cherries.
(Photo Sacramento Bee)
