This hunter found olives -- in Italy our cooking teacher said they had to be from the Lucca area

Pollo alla Cacciatora, chicken in the hunter’s style, is such a classic Italian stew that it has a thousand variations — by region, by tradition, and by grandma. Sonia, our cooking teacher in Lucca, was a passionate advocate of including the local olives from Lucca, which we hunted down with almost as much panting as a beagle after a fox. At last we found what we were looking for in a tiny wine shop, and grabbed some of the local olive oil as well, just to make sure we’d fully bagged our prey.

The origin of pollo alla cacciatora is in spirit meant to be a preparation of what the hunter might have brought home: a pheasant, a grouse, perhaps a rabbit, cooked in broth and wild mushrooms which presumably the hunter also thoughtfully chucked into his or her rucksack. Over time the wild critter has been replaced by the domestic chicken, and the recipe morphed and adapted to what’s at hand. The “hunter” is more likely the person who’s hunting up whatever the larder has to offer.

I’ll go so far as to give another interpretation, inspired by the adamant inclusion of Lucca olives. Chicken cacciatore can be the celebration of something local, be it mushrooms, olives, garden rosemary, homegrown tomatoes. To honor our beautiful teacher, I’ve included olives, but I also used locally grown vegetables and my own herbs. What makes it good is the freshness of the ingredients combined with slow and patient cooking.

Here is Sonia browning the chicken and breaking up the rosemary into the pan

She also brought in fresh local red onions and garlic for the dish

Here is everything needed for the Stateside cacciatore

Chicken Cacciatore | serves 4 to 6

1 whole chicken, cut into 8 pieces
3 tablespoons olive oil
8 small tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped (or 1 large can tomatoes)
1 onion, chopped
1 carrot, peeled and chopped
1 celery stalk, chopped
2 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed
1 cup dry white wine
4-inch sprig rosemary, leaves chopped
4-inch sprig fresh oregano, chopped
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 cup good quality olives
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
4 Italian parsley sprigs, leaves minced

Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a large pot and brown the chicken well on both sides. Cook in batches if necessary.

Mine cooked in two batches so as not to overcrowd the pan

Total browning time for both batches was about 25 minutes -- a good caramel color on the skin gives the stew good flavor

While the chicken is browning, prepare the tomatoes. Drop the tomatoes into boiling water and blanch for 1 minute. Rinse under cold water and peel off the skin. Slice the tomatoes in half, scrape out the seeds and discard, and chop the flesh.

Blanching makes the skin easy to remove

Cold water stops the cooking

The skin on some of the tomatoes has already "cracked" and peels right off

If it hasn't cracked, slice into it lightly and then pull the peel away

I use my thumb to push out the seeds and then chop the flesh of the tomato

When the chicken is browned, remove it to a plate. Put the chopped onion, carrot, celery and garlic in the pot and wilt for 5 minutes. Add 2/3 cup of the white wine and reduce it for 3 minutes.

Sauteing the vegetables will loosen most of the browned chicken bits from the pot

But any bits left on the pot will come up while reducing the wine

When the wine has mostly boiled off, add the chopped tomatoes, rosemary, oregano, red pepper flakes, the remaining 1/3 cup white wine and combine. Season with salt and pepper. Add the browned chicken and the olives to the pot and toss to coat the chicken.

Stir the vegetables together and then add the chicken back to the pot

Turn the chicken from time to time as it cooks

Cover tightly and simmer over very low heat for 45 minutes, turning the chicken occasionally while it cooks.

Adjust the seasoning when the chicken is done, and spoon onto a serving platter with all the juices. Sprinkle with minced parsley and serve — over polenta, with a hunk of great bread, over pasta, or just the way your hunters like it.

Kelly McCune © 2010

©2012 Kitchenelly. All Rights Reserved.

A lot of underground growers

No teenager wants to hear that there will be lettuce in the vegetable soup. They barely want to hear about vegetable soup, period. That was my — negative — reaction back in high school, when I was informed that this concoction was on the menu. I’d had a long day, slaving over a pep rally, AmCiv and glee club. My mother was taking a class with a local cooking teacher, Aileen Martin, who’d been trained in France and was very French in her approach to food. Mom says she lived next door to *Julia Child* when she lived in France, and I’ve found her name referenced in one of Simone Beck’s papers. She was the real thing, in any case, and made a big impression. And this was one of her recipes.

That was the year my mother came home with a Cuisinart, a mandoline, a baguette pan, a hinged pain de mie pan, and sharp-as-hell carbon knives. It was also the year that my own culinary eyes were opened, and to this day I preserve the “AM” embossed sheets that were handed out at mom’s lessons. There was an excellent and atmospheric kitchenware store in Tulsa (owned by the same Ralph Blaine who penned the lyrics to “Have Yourself a Merry Little Christmas”) where all these kitchen goodies were purchased. I still covet her original Cuisinart since it has no safety attachments whatsoever. And I’d love to have that store in my neighborhood.

It’s been years since I’ve made this particular stew, but I thought of it when I decided to conjure up some cold weather here in Los Angeles. I’ve also made some changes to it, but the lettuce stays. It makes the stew beautiful and controversial. And my teenager loved it.

Add one cozy fire, a couple of friends or family, and combine well

Winter Vegetable Stew | 6 to 8 servings

7 cups chicken stock, preferably homemade
Pinch of dried thyme (about 1/2 teaspoon)
3 leeks
3 carrots
3 parsnips
3 turnips
2 potatoes
4 ounces leaf spinach (about 3 cups)
1 head Boston (or butterhead) lettuce, green or redleaf
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup heavy cream
Minced parsley

In a large stockpot, begin heating the chicken stock with the thyme while you prepare the vegetables.

Trim most of the green leaves off the leeks, trim off the root, and cut in half lengthwise. Rinse well, separating the layers to clear out any grit.

Leeks hold a lot of grit between the layers, so rinse well

Slice into 1-inch pieces.

Leeks give a subtle onion plus garlic flavor -- Nero thought it improved his singing voice so he ate them by the bushel

Cut the carrots, parsnips, turnips and potatoes into rough cubes, without peeling.

Skip peeling, and it will add even more nutrients to the stew

It's the first frost that gives the parsnip its characteristic sweetness, making it the king of winter veggies

Look for small but heavy turnips -- large, old ones are starchy

Rinse the spinach well and coarsely chop.

I used baby spinach leaves here and didn't removed the stems

Rinse the Boston lettuce and break into large pieces. Set the spinach and lettuce aside.

To the almost simmering stock add the leeks, carrots, parsnips, turnips and potatoes, reserving the spinach and lettuce till the end.

The pot will seem very crowded

Cook over medium-low heat until the vegetables are just tender, about 30 minutes. Take care not to boil the liquid — vegetables are at their best if cooked gently, like poaching, with just a shimmer on the top of the broth. This keeps them from becoming shaggy.

While the vegetables are cooking, melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium-low heat. When it foams up, add the flour and whisk to combine.

This is just a basic roux to slightly thicken the stew

Whisk and cook the mixture for 2 minutes, without letting it brown.

The one-to-one mixture of flour and butter is the basis of any roux

Ladle broth from the stew pot into the mixture and whisk to combine. Reduce the heat to low and add enough broth to have a creamy roux. Turn off the heat and set aside until needed.

Hot broth is more easily incorporated into the butter/flour mixture than a cold liquid

In minutes you have a smooth white or blond roux that will thicken any soup or be the base for many cream and cheese sauces

When the vegetables are just tender, pour the roux into the stew and stir in gently. Season well with salt and pepper.

It just adds a little body to the broth

Add the chopped spinach and Boston lettuce. Press the leaves into the broth.

It will look like it won't fit, but use a spoon to press the lettuce down into the stew

The greens quickly wilt and incorporate into the mix

Cook the stew another 5 minutes only. Stir in the heavy cream and add more salt and pepper if needed.

A beautful pot of goodness

Heat for a minute or two and serve, sprinkled with parsley. And please, let it bring on a good reason to light a fire in the fireplace.

Kelly McCune © 2010

©2012 Kitchenelly. All Rights Reserved.